Ranked #1
Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers!... Read more
1 Apr 2019
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1hr 9mins
Ranked #2
Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing
Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing
This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of cli... Read more
4 Sep 2019
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1hr 21mins
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Ranked #3
Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength
Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength
In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next le... Read more
1 Mar 2017
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55mins
Ranked #4
Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training
Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training
Welcome to the launch of the new Training for Climbing podcast! This is one full hour of rich training-for-climbing cont... Read more
1 Jan 2017
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1hr 3mins
Ranked #5
Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training
Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training
This is the first of a two-part FIVE-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing y... Read more
26 Mar 2018
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1hr 16mins
Ranked #6
Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance
Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance
New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even rein... Read more
10 Jan 2019
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1hr 7mins
Ranked #7
Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter
Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter
While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genet... Read more
2 Feb 2017
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20mins
Ranked #8
Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System
Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System
This is the second in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to... Read more
6 May 2018
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57mins
Ranked #9
Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance
Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance
If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods... Read more
20 Nov 2019
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1hr 16mins
Ranked #10
Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power!
Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power!
This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems as a guiding model to train more effectively. This ... Read more
21 Jun 2018
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1hr 29mins
Ranked #11
Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training
Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training
This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for... Read more
11 May 2018
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1hr
Ranked #12
Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science
Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science
This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tou... Read more
28 Aug 2018
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1hr 28mins
Ranked #13
Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year!
Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year!
I hope you’ll find this New Year’s podcast informative, thought-provoking, and mobilizing! After all, uncommon success c... Read more
31 Dec 2017
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1hr 17mins
Ranked #14
Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors
Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors
If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train indoors during the week with th... Read more
1 Jul 2017
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1hr 21mins
Ranked #15
Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement
Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement
A question I'm often asked is how much time—or attempts—should you put into a project route, before taking a break and ... Read more
1 May 2017
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30mins
Ranked #16
Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling
Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling
If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you! While the fear of falling is most a... Read more
25 Oct 2017
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1hr 19mins
Ranked #17
Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running & Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training
Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running & Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training
This episode covers a lot of territory…beginning with a look at the very unique Hörst family winter training program. Ne... Read more
18 Feb 2018
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1hr 13mins
Ranked #18
Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips
Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips
0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers A... Read more
3 Nov 2018
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1hr 9mins
Ranked #19
Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season & In-Season Training for Peak Performance
Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season & In-Season Training for Peak Performance
Climbing is one of the most complex sports on this third rock from the sun, and training for climbing is an extraordinar... Read more
2 Jun 2017
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1hr 3mins
Ranked #20
Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future.
Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future.
Podcast #11 Training: The Past, The Present, The Future This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than single-... Read more
1 Apr 2017
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39mins