Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in ... Read more
13 Jul 2022
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49mins
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces... Read more
22 Jun 2022
•
47mins
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Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right w... Read more
15 Jun 2022
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25mins
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Associat... Read more
15 Jun 2022
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47mins
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Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta a... Read more
8 Jun 2022
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48mins
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coac... Read more
1 Jun 2022
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51mins
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1. They break down the specifics — from finger str... Read more
25 May 2022
•
51mins
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: ... Read more
9 Feb 2022
•
35mins
Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular su... Read more
2 Feb 2022
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49mins
Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue a... Read more
26 Jan 2022
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40mins
