Dan Varian

Are you obsessed with fingerboarding? Well, grab a seat and listen up as we delve into the world of beastmaking! In this episode Tom sat down with one of the founders of Beastmaker, Dan Varian, a fingerboarding expert. As you probably know Dan is no stranger to training and also has multiple FAs, repeats of v14s and hard trad routes, to name a few of his climbing achievements. It's tricky to know where to start in interviewing Dan, as alongide an impressive ticklist and running a successful business, Dan also manages to juggle family life as a loving husband and father. So this episode is not just for climbers trying to reach the next level in their own climbing, but also for those who manage a busy working and family life!Topics covered:Why Dan first started fingerboarding.How Beastmaker came to be.What does his training look like.What his approach is to finding new FAs.How he juggles Work, family and getting outdoors.How impactful ageing and becoming a parent is for him.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Are you obsessed with fingerboarding? Well, grab a seat and listen up as we delve into the world of beastmaking! In this episode <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom</a> sat down with one of the founders of <a href="https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Beastmaker</a>, <a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/athletes/dan-varian-71105#:~:text=Dan%20is%20a%20prolific%20first,is%20a%20Director%20of%20Beastmaker." rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Dan Varian</a>, a fingerboarding expert. As you probably know Dan is no stranger to training and also has multiple FAs, repeats of v14s and hard trad routes, to name a few of his climbing achievements.  It's tricky to know where to start in interviewing Dan, as alongide an impressive ticklist and running a successful business, Dan also manages to juggle family life as a loving husband and father. So this episode is not just for climbers trying to reach the next level in their own climbing, but also for those who manage a busy working and family life! Topics covered:<ul><li>Why Dan first started fingerboarding.</li><li>How Beastmaker came to be.</li><li>What does his training look like.</li><li>What his approach is to finding new FAs.</li><li>How he juggles Work, family and getting outdoors.</li><li>How impactful ageing and becoming a parent is for him.</li></ul>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Beastmaker: An Interview with Dan Varian

Have you ever wondered what it takes to achieve your climbing goals? Some people would argue you need the right facilities, equipment, time, low work stress and perhaps professional support to reach such high climbing grades, however, some individuals have proven that this is not necessarily true. Regardless of your personal approach, training for your goals is a process. In speaking to high-level climbers and athletes, we can always learn another side to the coin, and perhaps find tactics to deploy into our own training.   So, this is exactly what Andre Neres and Tom Randall are talking about today. Andre is a climber from Portugal who managed to climb 9a before the first commercial gym was even open in his home country while juggling busy family life and the all so common 9-5 working week!  Part of his success can be narrowed down to travelling as much as possible to famous crags, in order to learn from some of the best climbers out there. As such, Andre has acquired years' worth of knowledge, so this podcast is definitely not one to miss.  Topics covered:Why Andre started climbing.His mindset and training structure.What the climbing scene is like, in Portugal.Advice and experience gained from his climbing trips. Future Climbing Goals.For Andre's famous R9ad video, go to the following link: https://vimeo.com/80941121The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Have you ever wondered what it takes to achieve your climbing goals? Some people would argue you need the right facilities, equipment, time, low work stress and perhaps professional support to reach such high climbing grades, however, some individuals have proven that this is not necessarily true. Regardless of your personal approach, training for your goals is a process. In speaking to high-level climbers and athletes, we can always learn another side to the coin, and perhaps find tactics to deploy into our own training.  So, this is exactly what <a href="https://www.instagram.com/andr3neres/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Andre Neres</a> and<a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Tom Randall</a> are talking about today. Andre is a climber from Portugal who managed to climb 9a before the first commercial gym was even open in his home country while juggling busy family life and the all so common 9-5 working week!  Part of his success can be narrowed down to travelling as much as possible to famous crags, in order to learn from some of the best climbers out there. As such, Andre has acquired years' worth of knowledge, so this podcast is definitely not one to miss. Topics covered:<ul><li>Why Andre started climbing.</li><li>His mindset and training structure.</li><li>What the climbing scene is like, in Portugal.</li><li>Advice and experience gained from his climbing trips.</li><li> Future Climbing Goals.</li></ul>For Andre's famous R9ad video, go to the following link: <a href="https://vimeo.com/80941121" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://vimeo.com/80941121</a>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Dreaming Big! Are Your Climbing Goals Big Enough?

Tom Merrick

On this episode we have guest host Lattice coach Josh Hadley with Tom Merrick - who you may well know from YouTube! Tom has an amazing 8-year fitness journey in callisthenics and flexibility and is not only a great inspiration online with all of his drills and training, but is also a coach and specialist in bodyweight skills.  This kind of training and sport not only provides great strength and flexibility, but also control of your body and movement, which can be hugely transferable in climbing, whilst breaking away from traditional forms of training.  In this episode we cover:How Tom became a Coach and AthleteBiggest flexibility mistakesTips for breaking the struggling cycle and making progressHow much flexibility do we actually needRisks associated with flexibilityOne-arm pull-ups and front leversThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On this episode we have guest host Lattice coach <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/josh/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Josh Hadley</a> with <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU0DZhN-8KFLYO6beSaYljg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom Merrick</a> - who you may well know from YouTube! Tom has an amazing 8-year fitness journey in callisthenics and flexibility and is not only a great inspiration online with all of his drills and training, but is also a coach and specialist in bodyweight skills.  This kind of training and sport not only provides great strength and flexibility, but also control of your body and movement, which can be hugely transferable in climbing, whilst breaking away from traditional forms of training.  In this episode we cover:<ul><li>How Tom became a Coach and Athlete</li><li>Biggest flexibility mistakes</li><li>Tips for breaking the struggling cycle and making progress</li><li>How much flexibility do we actually need</li><li>Risks associated with flexibility</li><li>One-arm pull-ups and front levers</li></ul>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Flexibility and Calisthenics with The Bodyweight Warrior: Tom Merrick 

Lattice

On most of our Podcasts, we would usually sit down with elite climbers or complete specialists in niche areas of our sport, but today we have something a little different and we want to talk about what it is like to be on the journey of training and focusing on your goals.Focusing on the progress and what is actually done through training, Tom Randall sat down with Elizabeth Zang a previous client turned Lattice ambassador. She shares a lot of her journey online and isn't afraid to speak her mind through her social platforms, in a way that a lot of people can relate to.Do not be fooled, this podcast will not just talk about the highs, but also the lows, and how consistency ultimately rewards us in the long term.Topics covered:Elizabeth's  climbing backgroundWhere her climbing startedExpectations and reality of her first training planWhat you should know before starting a training planJournaling and Sharing on Social MediaCurrent and future goalsThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

On most of our Podcasts, we would usually sit down with elite climbers or complete specialists in niche areas of our sport, but today we have something a little different and we want to talk about what it is like to be on the journey of training and focusing on your goals.Focusing on the progress and what is actually done through training, <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom Randall</a> sat down with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/ezclimbs/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Elizabeth Zang</a> a previous client turned Lattice ambassador. She shares a lot of her journey online and isn't afraid to speak her mind through her social platforms, in a way that a lot of people can relate to. Do not be fooled, this podcast will not just talk about the highs, but also the lows, and how consistency ultimately rewards us in the long term.Topics covered:<ol><li>Elizabeth's  climbing background</li><li>Where her climbing started</li><li>Expectations and reality of her first training plan</li><li>What you should know before starting a training plan</li><li>Journaling and Sharing on Social Media</li><li>Current and future goals</li></ol>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Training with Lattice: What If I'm Not a Pro?

Favia Dubyk

Do you want to know more about how to juggle and manage a million different things, and what the process of dealing with setbacks looks like?Tom Randall is known for juggling a lot, however, Favia Dubyk not only works very hard hours but is also able to train at a higher level, showing us how you can do it all with the right time management. Not to mention Favia has had quite a few setbacks, including being diagnosed with lymphoma during med school and the ongoing challenges it brought. Believing in perseverance and in finding opportunities in the setbacks, Favia keeps proving that humans have much more capacity than we realise!Being the amazing human being she is, Favia is always thinking outside the box and impressing not just her coach Josh Hadley, but everyone here at Lattice. So, we hope you enjoy today's podcast!* Main Topics:Favia's Working lifeHer Climbing LifeManaging work life with climbingHow and when to prioritise climbingTraining and outdoor climbing managementWhat to do if a setback occursOpportunities and outcomes of setbacksHow is her Hueco V12 project going*Apologies if the sound is a bit off, Tom was kicked out of the main Lattice HQ office by the team. We promise we are working towards getting a better podcast studio set-up asap!Favia's Doctor Service: https://drfavia.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Do you want to know more about how to juggle and manage a million different things, and what the process of dealing with setbacks looks like?<a href="https://latticetraining.com/about-us/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom Randall </a>is known for juggling a lot, however, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/felinefavia/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Favia Dubyk</a> not only works very hard hours but is also able to train at a higher level, showing us how you can do it all with the right time management. Not to mention Favia has had quite a few setbacks, including being diagnosed with lymphoma during med school and the ongoing challenges it brought. Believing in perseverance and in finding opportunities in the setbacks, Favia keeps proving that humans have much more capacity than we realise! Being the amazing human being she is, Favia is always thinking outside the box and impressing not just her coach Josh Hadley, but everyone here at Lattice. So, we hope you enjoy today's podcast!*  Main Topics:<ol><li>Favia's Working life</li><li>Her Climbing Life</li><li>Managing work life with climbing</li><li>How and when to prioritise climbing</li><li>Training and outdoor climbing management</li><li>What to do if a setback occurs</li><li>Opportunities and outcomes of setbacks</li><li>How is her Hueco V12 project going</li></ol>*Apologies if the sound is a bit off, Tom was kicked out of the main Lattice HQ office by the team. We promise we are working towards getting a better podcast studio set-up asap!Favia's Doctor Service: <a href="https://drfavia.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://drfavia.com/</a>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Life Hacks for Hardcore Working Hours and Training: Favia Dubyk

Tom Randall

Maddy Cope

In this podcast, Tom and Maddy sit down to talk about the role of expectations and satisfaction in climbing. Both Tom and Maddy have thought about the mindset with respect to their own climbing, and discuss their different approaches. Expectations and satisfaction are linked, and as such it is important to think about and manage our expectations, as well as what we define as a success, especially when trying projects that challenge us. Some the topics discussed in this conversation are;Expectations and how they play into climbingExpectations as a distraction and fear of fallingThe process of asking yourself honest questionsReflection, morphing memories, and having well informed expectationsThe link between expectation and satisfactionExploring what we value in our climbing in order to get the most satisfactionSuccess without sending?Sending and satisfaction?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom</a> and <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/maddy-cope/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Maddy</a> sit down to talk about the role of expectations and satisfaction in climbing. Both Tom and Maddy have thought about the mindset with respect to their own climbing, and discuss their different approaches. Expectations and satisfaction are linked, and as such it is important to think about and manage our expectations, as well as what we define as a success, especially when trying projects that challenge us. Some the topics discussed in this conversation are;<ul><li>Expectations and how they play into climbing</li><li>Expectations as a distraction and fear of falling</li><li>The process of asking yourself honest questions</li><li>Reflection, morphing memories, and having well informed expectations</li><li>The link between expectation and satisfaction</li><li>Exploring what we value in our climbing in order to get the most satisfaction</li><li>Success without sending?</li><li>Sending and satisfaction?</li></ul>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Expectations and Satisfaction in Climbing, with Tom Randall and Maddy Cope  

In this Podcast, Tom Randall has a chat with Adam Fiala, which is going to be quite different from anything you've heard on the Lattice Podcast before. We will have both a narrated interview and an insightful chat into the journey that our client took with us to climb his first f8b+ (5.14 USA route grade).This comprehensive look into his training and performance will have us read out some of the stages of his journey directly from his blog. Plus some teasing out of ideas to see if Adam gives a bit more information of what it is like working with us at Lattice.Because Adam has written such an in-depth piece of writing about his climbing, we’re going to split this interview into 2 parts.  Also, we would like to give credit to David Goggins audible book for the concept of narration with an interview, as it is an absolutely brilliant format.Lastly, we just want to let you know about the 2 variations of Adam’s blog - there’s the full unedited version on his own website and a condensed version in 2 parts on our website. There is always so much we can learn from understanding the experience of others, so we hope you enjoy this episode.Adam’s climbing and training history Common misconceptions of working with a coach Details of Performance profilingLattice's different approach to trainingNutrition behind Adam's training, and his fears of weight gainTraining programme detailsDetails on his project attempts The hard truth about trainingLink to Adam's Blog: http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.htmlThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this Podcast, <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom Randall</a> has a chat with <a href="https://www.instagram.com/just_another_czech_climber/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Adam Fiala</a>, which is going to be quite different from anything you've heard on the Lattice Podcast before. We will have both a narrated interview and an insightful chat into the journey that our client took with us to climb his first f8b+ (5.14 USA route grade). This comprehensive look into his training and performance will have us read out some of the stages of his journey directly from his blog. Plus some teasing out of ideas to see if Adam gives a bit more information of what it is like working with us at Lattice.Because Adam has written such an in-depth piece of writing about his climbing, we’re going to split this interview into 2 parts.  Also, we would like to give credit to <a href="https://www.audible.co.uk/pd/Cant-Hurt-Me-Audiobook/B07KKNG85B" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">David Goggins audible book</a> for the concept of narration with an interview, as it is an absolutely brilliant format.Lastly, we just want to let you know about the 2 variations of<a href="http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Adam’s blog</a> - there’s the full unedited version on his own website and a condensed version in 2 parts on our website. There is always so much we can learn from understanding the experience of others, so we hope you enjoy this episode.<ol><li>Adam’s climbing and training history </li><li>Common misconceptions of working with a coach </li><li>Details of Performance profiling</li><li>Lattice's different approach to training</li><li>Nutrition behind Adam's training, and his fears of weight gain</li><li>Training programme details</li><li>Details on his project attempts </li><li>The hard truth about training</li></ol>Link to Adam's Blog: <a href="http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://mujsuplik.blogspot.com/p/dancing-with-wolves-blog-series.html</a>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Climbing My First 5.14a: A Story of Progress & Training (Part 1)

Steven Dimmitt AKA ‘The Nugget Climbing Podcast’ is the founder and owner of one of the hottest (and most interesting) interview shows in the climbing industry right now. It has only been going just over 2yrs but has already had a huge impact on the climbing community and features tonnes of well-chosen and crafted interviews with pros, coaches and climbing personalities.  His show has featured some of the great climbers of all time and clients we’ve also tested or trained ourselves - including people like Ben Moon, Hazel Findlay and Steve McClure. Steven was also a client of ours at Lattice, some years ago, but connected with us again recently with Tom Randall as a guest on his own show. This got us thinking, if we’ve got someone who’s spent the last 2 years interviewing some of the world’s best climbers and most interesting members of the community, then surely he’s observed some patterns and commonalities between all these individuals? In this episode, Tom chats to Steven about some of the guests on the show, how he pulls information from his sources and has utilised it in his own climbing or with his own clients and finally what he’s learnt from his experiences of living and working on the road whilst trying to perform. Find out more about Steven’s podcast here and his Patreon here. You can also find him on Instagram here! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Steven Dimmitt AKA ‘<a href="https://www.instagram.com/thenuggetclimbing/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Nugget Climbing Podcast</a>’ is the founder and owner of one of the hottest (and most interesting) interview shows in the climbing industry right now. It has only been going just over 2yrs but has already had a huge impact on the climbing community and features tonnes of well-chosen and crafted interviews with pros, coaches and climbing personalities.  His show has featured some of the great climbers of all time and clients we’ve also tested or trained ourselves - including people like Ben Moon, Hazel Findlay and Steve McClure. Steven was also a client of ours at Lattice, some years ago, but connected with us again recently with Tom Randall as a guest on his own show. This got us thinking, if we’ve got someone who’s spent the last 2 years interviewing some of the world’s best climbers and most interesting members of the community, then surely he’s observed some patterns and commonalities between all these individuals? In this episode, <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom </a>chats to Steven about some of the guests on the show, how he pulls information from his sources and has utilised it in his own climbing or with his own clients and finally what he’s learnt from his experiences of living and working on the road whilst trying to perform. Find out more about Steven’s podcast <a href="https://thenuggetclimbing.com/about" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a> and his Patreon <a href="https://thenuggetclimbing.com/support" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a>. You can also find him on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/stevendimmitt/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a>! The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice and Nugget Climbing Podcast Episode

Anoushé Husain

Today Tom Randall talks with Anoushé Husain, who just set the Guinness World Record for the greatest vertical distance climbed on a climbing wall, one-handed, using the same hand in an hour.Anoushé had joined Tom for a podcast in early 2021 on the topic of overcoming setbacks, as life keeps sending her curveballs. However, this athlete has just become more resilient and stronger than ever.  So today's podcast will go into the mindset and training leading to this new world record, from goal setting to the strategies she uses to overcome though times and find her own opportunities.So get ready to get pumped with this podcast!Details of what the Guinness Record involves. The initial formulation of the plan and how the process looked.The key to staying on track, despite setbacks.Does Anoushé set herself up for success and prepare for setbacks?What did she get out of this project?Advice on how to find opportunities when you get setbacks in your own journey.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today Tom Randall talks with Anoushé Husain, who just set the Guinness World Record for the greatest vertical distance climbed on a climbing wall, one-handed, using the same hand in an hour. Anoushé had joined Tom for a podcast in early 2021 on the topic of overcoming setbacks, as life keeps sending her curveballs. However, this athlete has just become more resilient and stronger than ever.  So today's podcast will go into the mindset and training leading to this new world record, from goal setting to the strategies she uses to overcome though times and find her own opportunities. So get ready to get pumped with this podcast!<ol><li>Details of what the Guinness Record involves. </li><li>The initial formulation of the plan and how the process looked.</li><li>The key to staying on track, despite setbacks.</li><li>Does Anoushé set herself up for success and prepare for setbacks?</li><li>What did she get out of this project?</li><li>Advice on how to find opportunities when you get setbacks in your own journey.</li></ol>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Mindset & Training Behind a Guinness World Record with Anoushé Husain

After our recent interview with training legend Eric Horst, we've got another major contributor to training, performance and climbing rehab on the Lattice Podcast - this week we are chatting to Tyler Nelson, AKA Camp 4 Human Performance.Tyler's content on Instagram really gets people thinking, as he explores new approaches to rehab and climbing performance.  His curiosity for evidence-based practice makes him an unstoppable energy for trying things others could never think of!Since a lot of Tyler's work aligns with what we do here at Lattice, Tom Randall sat down with Tyler to get his thoughts on the following topics:Which sports away from climbing does Tyler draw knowledge from, and what are the nuances of this?What are climbers currently doing that concerns him injury-wise, and how can they prevent / improve this?What is the future for the use of training and assessment, and the tools/gadgets/apps related to it?The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

After our recent interview with training legend Eric Horst, we've got another major contributor to training, performance and climbing rehab on the <a href="https://open.spotify.com/show/50sYzSCZvZLLKWFu7xMm6v?si=2a34f528dcef497a" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lattice Podcast</a> - this week we are chatting to <a href="https://www.instagram.com/c4hp/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tyler Nelson</a>, AKA Camp 4 Human Performance.Tyler's content on Instagram really gets people thinking, as he explores new approaches to rehab and climbing performance.  His curiosity for evidence-based practice makes him an unstoppable energy for trying things others could never think of! Since a lot of Tyler's work aligns with what we do here at <a href="https://latticetraining.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lattice</a>, Tom Randall sat down with Tyler to get his thoughts on the following topics:<ol><li>Which sports away from climbing does Tyler draw knowledge from, and what are the nuances of this?</li><li>What are climbers currently doing that concerns him injury-wise, and how can they prevent / improve this?</li><li>What is the future for the use of training and assessment, and the tools/gadgets/apps related to it?</li></ol>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tyler Nelson (Camp4) Interview: Experiments, Injuries & Tools of The Trade

Hosted by Lattice Training - the world's leading climbing coaching and training company - this podcast features discussions and interviews with many of the planet's best climbers and coaches. We delve into the details of what works and what doesn't when it comes to training, performance and recovery. Whether you're just starting out climbing, or a professional athlete, there is an incredible depth of knowledge throughout the episodes! For further support and knowledge please check out Lattice 365, our exclusive membership group.

Pull up a chair and grab yourself a line of developer code, you're about to listen to a bit of the story all about the origins of Crimpd! Tom Randall sat down with one of the founders of Crimpd, Peter Klimek, to take a step back in time to where things all started between Lattice and Crimpd. They discuss how the partnership came about, all the way through to where we're looking to go in the future and where training and technology could potentially go. This one's very much of a 'behind the scenes' chat of all things Lattice &amp; Crimpd, so if you're not aware of what the Crimpd App actually is, go and download it right now so you know what they're talking about!  Topics covered:1. Peter’s background in IT and tech and how he got into app development from cyber security.2. The origin story behind Crimpd, the collaboration with Lattice and how it all happened.3. What are the key features to getting an app experience right and how does this relate to training.4. What is Crimpd next developing. 5. What he would advise to anyone interested in working in the tech sector.6. What is the future of apps and tech in climbing, and its influence on training.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Pull up a chair and grab yourself a line of developer code, you're about to listen to a bit of the story all about the origins of <a href="https://www.crimpd.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Crimpd</a>! <a href="https://latticetraining.com/about/tom-randall/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tom Randall</a> sat down with one of the founders of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/crimpd/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Crimpd</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/pklime/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Peter Klimek</a>, to take a step back in time to where things all started between <a href="https://latticetraining.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lattice</a> and Crimpd. They discuss how the partnership came about, all the way through to where we're looking to go in the future and where training and technology could potentially go. This one's very much of a 'behind the scenes' chat of all things Lattice &amp; Crimpd, so if you're not aware of what the <a href="https://www.crimpd.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Crimpd App</a> actually is, go and download it right now so you know what they're talking about!  Topics covered:1. Peter’s background in IT and tech and how he got into app development from cyber security.2. The origin story behind Crimpd, the collaboration with Lattice and how it all happened.3. What are the key features to getting an app experience right and how does this relate to training.4. What is Crimpd next developing. 5. What he would advise to anyone interested in working in the tech sector.6. What is the future of apps and tech in climbing, and its influence on training.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

CRIMPD, AN ORIGIN STORY...

James Spragg

In this podcast Maddy talks to James Spragg, a cycling coach and physiologist, about energy systems. James talks through the different energy systems, the relationship between intensity and energy system contribution, takes a deep dive into the aerobic energy system and how to train it effectively, and talks about profiling our energy systems in order to inform training.Topics covered:1:30 - A bit about James and his journey in cycling, academia and coaching3:35 - James’ PhD7:30 - Overview of energy systems 13:06 - Energy systems are synergistic14:01 - The hyperbolic force-time relationship18:03 - The relationship between intensity and energy system contribution21: 40 - Cause of muscle fatigue27:45 - The aerobic system and sustainable exercise29:52 - The importance of capillarisation and training the aerobic system37:30 - Lactate. The myth demystified. 42:09 - Pump, RPE and the feeling associated with training the aerobic system in long duration and interval sessions46:00 - Why power endurance doesn’t maximise aerobic system development50:00 - The glycolytic system; discussion of adaptation pathways55:44 - Recovery from aerobic base sessions and frequency58:00 - Getting the aerobic base training in. Spinning plates in training.1:00:32 - What impacts rate of adaptation in aerobic training1:03:00 - Previous training history and getting back to a certain level faster1:06:00 - Different ways to get to the same goal. Exploring different approaches effectiveness through testing, intervention, retesting1:13:05 - Different training scenarios and approach people can take to address training for a sport project1:24:36 - Balancing strength and enduranceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast Maddy talks to James Spragg, a cycling coach and physiologist, about energy systems. James talks through the different energy systems, the relationship between intensity and energy system contribution, takes a deep dive into the aerobic energy system and how to train it effectively, and talks about profiling our energy systems in order to inform training. Topics covered: 1:30 - A bit about James and his journey in cycling, academia and coaching3:35 - James’ PhD7:30 - Overview of energy systems 13:06 - Energy systems are synergistic14:01 - The hyperbolic force-time relationship18:03 - The relationship between intensity and energy system contribution21: 40 - Cause of muscle fatigue27:45 - The aerobic system and sustainable exercise29:52 - The importance of capillarisation and training the aerobic system37:30 - Lactate. The myth demystified. 42:09 - Pump, RPE and the feeling associated with training the aerobic system in long duration and interval sessions46:00 - Why power endurance doesn’t maximise aerobic system development50:00 - The glycolytic system; discussion of adaptation pathways55:44 - Recovery from aerobic base sessions and frequency58:00 - Getting the aerobic base training in. Spinning plates in training.1:00:32 - What impacts rate of adaptation in aerobic training1:03:00 - Previous training history and getting back to a certain level faster1:06:00 - Different ways to get to the same goal. Exploring different approaches effectiveness through testing, intervention, retesting1:13:05 - Different training scenarios and approach people can take to address training for a sport project1:24:36 - Balancing strength and endurance The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

How Energy Systems Can Be Used to Train Effectively with James Spragg

Emily Elgar

In this podcast, Maddy talked to Emily Elgar, who is a pelvic health physiotherapist based at Katie Bell Physio in Sheffield. They talk about topics relating to pregnancy and postpartum, such as pelvic health, delivery and recovery, and pelvic organ prolapse. Emily talks about her approach to pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, from her perspective as a life coach as well as for exercise. Emily also shared a number of great resources that support this conversation that can be found in the show notes. Some of the topics covered are;The changing landscape of pelvic physio in relation to pregnancy and postpartumBack and pelvic girdle pain and how we can manage itThe pelvic floor; finding it, training it and timeframesDelivery and initial recovery postpartumC-section recoveryPelvic organ prolapse. This is a massive area, with so much to delve into. If you are interested in strength training then check out our podcast with Joy Black, or our podcast with UMI-Health about the pelvic floor.Resources from Emily:Reframing return-to-sport postpartum: the 6 Rs frameworkhttps://bjsm.bmj.com/content/54/6/360https://www.acog.org/clinical/clinical-guidance/committee-opinion/articles/2020/04/physical-activity-and-exercise-during-pregnancy-and-the-postpartum-periodHome Page - Burrell EducationHome Page - Squeezy (squeezyapp.com)www.hlp-therapy.co.uk  (c-section) Its You Babe V2 Supporter | StressNoMore   (Prolapse support)Kegel Exerciser with App | Perifit - Perifit (United Kingdom) Elvie Trainer | Smart Pelvic Floor Exerciser and App | Elvie | ElvieThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this podcast, Maddy talked to Emily Elgar, who is a pelvic health physiotherapist based at Katie Bell Physio in Sheffield. They talk about topics relating to pregnancy and postpartum, such as pelvic health, delivery and recovery, and pelvic organ prolapse. Emily talks about her approach to pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, from her perspective as a life coach as well as for exercise. Emily also shared a number of great resources that support this conversation that can be found in the show notes. Some of the topics covered are;<ul><li>The changing landscape of pelvic physio in relation to pregnancy and postpartum</li><li>Back and pelvic girdle pain and how we can manage it</li><li>The pelvic floor; finding it, training it and timeframes</li><li>Delivery and initial recovery postpartum</li><li>C-section recovery</li><li>Pelvic organ prolapse. </li></ul>This is a massive area, with so much to delve into. If you are interested in strength training then check out our podcast with Joy Black, or our podcast with UMI-Health about the pelvic floor.Resources from Emily:<a href="https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/early/2022/02/02/bjsports-2021-104877" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Reframing return-to-sport postpartum: the 6 Rs framework</a><a href="https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/54/6/360" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/54/6/360</a><a href="https://www.acog.org/clinical/clinical-guidance/committee-opinion/articles/2020/04/physical-activity-and-exercise-during-pregnancy-and-the-postpartum-period" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.acog.org/clinical/clinical-guidance/committee-opinion/articles/2020/04/physical-activity-and-exercise-during-pregnancy-and-the-postpartum-period</a><a href="https://www.burrelleducation.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Home Page - Burrell Education</a><a href="https://www.squeezyapp.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Home Page - Squeezy (squeezyapp.com)</a><a href="http://www.hlp-therapy.co.uk/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.hlp-therapy.co.uk</a>  (c-section) <a href="https://www.stressnomore.co.uk/its-you-babe-v2-supporter-12352.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Its You Babe V2 Supporter | StressNoMore</a>   (Prolapse support)<a href="https://uk.perifit.co/collections/frontpage/products/kegel-exerciser-with-app?variant=40102344556698" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Kegel Exerciser with App | Perifit - Perifit (United Kingdom)</a> <a href="https://www.elvie.com/en-gb/shop/elvie-trainer" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Elvie Trainer | Smart Pelvic Floor Exerciser and App | Elvie | Elvie</a> The Lattice jingle is brought to you by<a href="https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Devin Dabney</a>, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Pelvic Health: Pregnancy & Postpartum with Emily Elgar

Eric Horst

This episode is a BIG one! We’ve got on the show today, Eric Horst, one of the original founding fathers of modern training theory for climbing and a total legend of the climbing world in general…. This episode is going to be hardcore training and more training! In many ways, what we’ve tried to achieve at Lattice has been built upon the foundation of work, theory and practice of climbers like Eric who have made a significant contribution to the industry’s knowledge via books, podcasts, videos and many articles. As there’s an almost unlimited amount of items we’d like to cover in this interview, we’ve tried to distil down Eric’s knowledge, opinion and experience into a number of ‘big ticket’ items that relate to many of us, when it comes to climbing training and performance. Sit back, grab yourself a cup of tea and enjoy… Key topics in this episode:EnduranceStrengthPerformance Profiling FingerboardingSystem boardsFor anything related to PhysiVantage please check out Eric’s in depth website over at: https://physivantage.com/The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

This episode is a BIG one! We’ve got on the show today, Eric Horst, one of the original founding fathers of modern training theory for climbing and a total legend of the climbing world in general…. This episode is going to be hardcore training and more training! In many ways, what we’ve tried to achieve at Lattice has been built upon the foundation of work, theory and practice of climbers like Eric who have made a significant contribution to the industry’s knowledge via books, podcasts, videos and many articles. As there’s an almost unlimited amount of items we’d like to cover in this interview, we’ve tried to distil down Eric’s knowledge, opinion and experience into a number of ‘big ticket’ items that relate to many of us, when it comes to climbing training and performance. Sit back, grab yourself a cup of tea and enjoy…  Key topics in this episode:<ol><li>Endurance</li><li>Strength</li><li>Performance Profiling </li><li>Fingerboarding</li><li>System boards</li></ol> For anything related to PhysiVantage please check out Eric’s in depth website over at:<a href="https://physivantage.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> https://physivantage.com/</a> The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Eric Horst: A Founding Father of Modern Training Theory for Climbing

You DM'd us, and we have answered, so today we have the guy who gained everyone's attention in early 2021 with his infamous 30-day fingerboard routine. We cover a broad range of topics, which should answer all of the questions you sent to us via Instagram, and other social media!Emil is an incredibly experienced climber, representing Sweden in competitions, climbing outdoors, and of course sharing his journey through his Youtube channel. Recording his training, and sharing his big goals of sending "The Big Island", Emil really shows his versatility as a climber. So, don't expect this interview to be all about fingerboarding!Lastly, he has recently made the choice to move full time into a 'van-life' way of living, committing to full-time climbing and filmmaking. Other than his fingerboard experiment, we will also discuss how he balances indoors vs outdoor climbing and what he’s experienced during his transition to van living. How Emil's fingerboarding idea startedEmil's reaction to the feedback from the fingerboarding videoWill he repeat or change the fingerboarding procedure from the initial video?How this fingerboarding procedure affected his strengthHow he balances indoors with outdoorsHow Emil's height or weight affects this performanceWhere the focus for "The Big Island" came fromFootworkVan lifeInternal and external expectations with YouTubeSo far what have been the pros and cons of this changeWhere Emil sees himself in the near future The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

You DM'd us, and we have answered, so today we have the guy who gained everyone's attention in early 2021 with his infamous 30-day fingerboard routine. We cover a broad range of topics, which should answer all of the questions you sent to us via Instagram, and other social media!Emil is an incredibly experienced climber, representing Sweden in competitions, climbing outdoors, and of course sharing his journey through his Youtube channel. Recording his training, and sharing his big goals of sending "The Big Island", Emil really shows his versatility as a climber. So, don't expect this interview to be all about fingerboarding!Lastly, he has recently made the choice to move full time into a 'van-life' way of living, committing to full-time climbing and filmmaking. Other than his fingerboard experiment, we will also discuss how he balances indoors vs outdoor climbing and what he’s experienced during his transition to van living. <ol><li>How Emil's fingerboarding idea started</li><li>Emil's reaction to the feedback from the fingerboarding video</li><li>Will he repeat or change the fingerboarding procedure from the initial video?</li><li>How this fingerboarding procedure affected his strength</li><li>How he balances indoors with outdoors</li><li>How Emil's height or weight affects this performance</li><li>Where the focus for "The Big Island" came from</li><li>Footwork</li><li>Van life</li><li>Internal and external expectations with YouTube</li><li>So far what have been the pros and cons of this change</li><li>Where Emil sees himself in the near future</li></ol> The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Interview with Emil Abrahamsson, The Hangboarding Youtube  Phenomenon!

Dave MacLeod

Welcome to part 2 of this interview with the climbing legend Dave MacLeod. This week Lattice coach Maddy delved even deeper into Dave's climbing and training approach, by diving straight into chatting about his famous nutrition experiments and approaches to balancing a keto diet with his own training and climbing.   We also hear more about Dave's personal standpoints on nutrition and the mental aspects related to dieting, particularly in the climbing world.  As providers of nutrition services and information to the climbing community, we know all too well about the risks and the strong feelings that can be attached to dieting*, especially alongside high intensity training, so this is also covered in this interview.  Don't forget to catch up on Part 1, where Dave and Maddy discussed; 📌Dave's approach to training and climbing📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ 🔥*Please note that nutrition is highly individual and if you are struggling with disordered eating you should seek the help of a qualified professional. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project. 

Welcome to part 2 of this interview with the climbing legend Dave MacLeod. This week Lattice coach Maddy delved even deeper into Dave's climbing and training approach, by diving straight into chatting about his famous nutrition experiments and approaches to balancing a keto diet with his own training and climbing.  We also hear more about Dave's personal standpoints on nutrition and the mental aspects related to dieting, particularly in the climbing world.  As providers of nutrition services and information to the climbing community, we know all too well about the risks and the strong feelings that can be attached to dieting*, especially alongside high intensity training, so this is also covered in this interview. Don't forget to catch up on Part 1, where Dave and Maddy discussed; 📌Dave's approach to training and climbing 📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice 📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him 📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ 🔥 *Please note that nutrition is highly individual and if you are struggling with disordered eating you should seek the help of a qualified professional. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Nutrition with Dave MacLeod -  Interview with a Climbing Legend, Part 2

In the Lattice Training podcast today we have another guest from the arm lifting world whose long term track record of training, competing and record breaking accomplishments is rarely rivalled across the grip strength sports. It’s rare that we get to interview someone who’s really been focusing on something so specific to climbing performance - AKA grip strength - for over 20 yrs. Eric Roussin, is from Canada and has a long history of competitive arm wrestling, having started as a teenager in 1996 and has been competing in Grip Sports for just over 10 yrs. He won the Canadian overall National Title 5yrs in a row and also a gold medal in the World Arm Lifting Championships on the Rolling Thunder and has the world record on Napalms Nightmare and 2 arm thick bar lift.  Interestingly, Eric is a blend of competitor and historian so he’s got an incredible knowledge of what’s developed over time and an understanding of training and performance methodology, which at Lattice, we’re always interested to learn more about! Check out in the show notes at the bottom, some really useful links provided by Eric, who kindly provided us all with some signposting to learn more on this front. In today’s episode we covered:What got Eric into arm wrestling originally and his formative years of training.What he thinks about grip or hand strength in arm lifting and the repercussions for training methodology or approach. His thoughts on the differences between arm lifting and arm wrestling.How he trains for grip lifting, rather than grip pulling or hanging.Whether he does any cross-training.How important he thinks strength in the entire kinetic chain is. Are there any common “weak” links he sees?What does the grip sports community think of fingerboarding.What are the King Kong Grip Challenges. David Horne - site: http://www.davidhorne-gripmaster.com/index.htmlDavid Horne Basic training routine video: https://youtu.be/FGuVJAj96SE Grip Board (the world’s most popular grip strength related forum): www.gripboard.com (event King Kong details can be found in the Grip Contests section)Popular facebook page for all things grip: https://www.facebook.com/groups/330749460395996 Eric’s websites: www.canadagripsport.com &amp; www.thearmwrestlingarchives.comThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In the Lattice Training podcast today we have another guest from the arm lifting world whose long term track record of training, competing and record breaking accomplishments is rarely rivalled across the grip strength sports. It’s rare that we get to interview someone who’s really been focusing on something so specific to climbing performance - AKA grip strength - for over 20 yrs. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCH6gIDKTiEJOLxtWXI963_Q" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Eric Roussin,</a> is from Canada and has a long history of competitive arm wrestling, having started as a teenager in 1996 and has been competing in Grip Sports for just over 10 yrs. He won the Canadian overall National Title 5yrs in a row and also a gold medal in the World Arm Lifting Championships on the Rolling Thunder and has the world record on Napalms Nightmare and 2 arm thick bar lift.  Interestingly, Eric is a blend of competitor and historian so he’s got an incredible knowledge of what’s developed over time and an understanding of training and performance methodology, which at Lattice, we’re always interested to learn more about! Check out in the show notes at the bottom, some really useful links provided by Eric, who kindly provided us all with some signposting to learn more on this front. In today’s episode we covered:<ol><li>What got Eric into arm wrestling originally and his formative years of training.</li><li>What he thinks about grip or hand strength in arm lifting and the repercussions for training methodology or approach. </li><li>His thoughts on the differences between arm lifting and arm wrestling.</li><li>How he trains for grip lifting, rather than grip pulling or hanging.</li><li>Whether he does any cross-training.</li><li>How important he thinks strength in the entire kinetic chain is. Are there any common “weak” links he sees?</li><li>What does the grip sports community think of fingerboarding.</li><li>What are the King Kong Grip Challenges. </li></ol>David Horne - site: <a href="http://www.davidhorne-gripmaster.com/index.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.davidhorne-gripmaster.com/index.html</a>David Horne Basic training routine video: <a href="https://youtu.be/FGuVJAj96SE" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/FGuVJAj96SE</a> Grip Board (the world’s most popular grip strength related forum): <a href="http://www.gripboard.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.gripboard.com</a> (event King Kong details can be found in the Grip Contests section)Popular facebook page for all things grip: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/330749460395996" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.facebook.com/groups/330749460395996</a> Eric’s websites: <a href="http://www.canadagripsport.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.canadagripsport.com</a> &amp; <a href="http://www.thearmwrestlingarchives.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.thearmwrestlingarchives.com</a>The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

20 Years of Elite Grip Strength: Eric Roussin

Settle down and get comfy because Dave MacLeod is in the house and you are going to want to hear this one! We were recently lucky enough to have Dave MacLeod come down to the Lattice Training HQ and dive into all things climbing and training!In this podcast Dave and Lattice coach Maddy Cope sat down and had a good old chat! Tune in to find out more about;📌Dave's approach to training and climbing📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ This interview covers many things in between these topics, so be sure to tune in for so much more - plus we've also split into two parts, so keep an eye out next week for part 2. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Settle down and get comfy because Dave MacLeod is in the house and you are going to want to hear this one! We were recently lucky enough to have Dave MacLeod come down to the Lattice Training HQ and dive into all things climbing and training!In this podcast Dave and Lattice coach Maddy Cope sat down and had a good old chat! Tune in to find out more about;📌Dave's approach to training and climbing📌How he applies his understanding of science to his practice📌How the mental side of climbing evolved for him📌His process on hard climbs and headpoints 📌The consideration of specificity in training for climbing goals 📌Stepping things up to 9a+ This interview covers many things in between these topics, so be sure to tune in for so much more - plus we've also split into two parts, so keep an eye out next week for part 2. The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Training Talk with Dave MacLeod - Interview with a Climbing Legend, Part 1

Yves Gravelle

Today we have a true legend of finger strength - the one and only Yves Gravelle. He has some of the strongest fingers in the world, pound for pound and has demonstrated this in both the climbing and arm lifting world, whilst also holding down a full time job and the added role of parenting on top of that. In terms of his climbing, Yves is an International comp athlete, having represented Canada for a number of years, he’s bouldered V15 and repeated and established multiple problems in the double digit range. For Arm Lifting, he is 3 x APL World Champ, the lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell and has a PB of 105kg on the Rolling Thunder.If you’re someone who’s interested in the opinion, practices and methods of an athlete at the top 0.0001% of their game, when it comes to building strong fingers, then listen in hard!In this episode we cover the following topics:Yves's classic feats of strength.His early climbing years.The tools in the last 20 yrs that he's felt were most effective.How often he trains grip strength. How he balances that with normal climbing.What has been the role of arm lifting and when he got into it.Are arm lifters doing anything different to climbers?Hang vs lift tools for finger strength training.How he 'transfers' his training strength across into climbing.His balance of low intensity and high volume training.How he trains with limited time and resources. His tips for climbers getting into their first season of arm lift training.Yves' Sponsors: Bloc shop, Kailas, Tembo, Digit Climbing, Xcult USA, Coyote rock gymHis YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videosHis Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=enI’m from Ottawa, CanadaBeen climbing for 22 years. Ex Canadian National Bouldering team member. 7-8 time???3 x arm lifting World Champion (APL federation)8C boulderMultiple World records and class world records order  in the sport of Armlifting. Feats Highlight - lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell- 6mm one arm pull-up and deadhang- lattice test edge + 32kg- 105kg on the rolling thunder- 1-5-9 with construction gloves The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today we have a true legend of finger strength - the one and only Yves Gravelle. He has some of the strongest fingers in the world, pound for pound and has demonstrated this in both the climbing and arm lifting world, whilst also holding down a full time job and the added role of parenting on top of that. In terms of his climbing, Yves is an International comp athlete, having represented Canada for a number of years, he’s bouldered V15 and repeated and established multiple problems in the double digit range. For Arm Lifting, he is 3 x APL World Champ, the lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell and has a PB of 105kg on the Rolling Thunder. If you’re someone who’s interested in the opinion, practices and methods of an athlete at the top 0.0001% of their game, when it comes to building strong fingers, then listen in hard! In this episode we cover the following topics: <ol><li>Yves's classic feats of strength.</li><li>His early climbing years.</li><li>The tools in the last 20 yrs that he's felt were most effective.</li><li>How often he trains grip strength. </li><li>How he balances that with normal climbing.</li><li>What has been the role of arm lifting and when he got into it.</li><li>Are arm lifters doing anything different to climbers?</li><li>Hang vs lift tools for finger strength training.</li><li>How he 'transfers' his training strength across into climbing.</li><li>His balance of low intensity and high volume training.</li><li>How he trains with limited time and resources. </li><li>His tips for climbers getting into their first season of arm lift training.</li></ol> Yves' Sponsors: Bloc shop, Kailas, Tembo, Digit Climbing, Xcult USA, Coyote rock gymHis YouTube channel: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videos" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/user/yvesgravelle/videos</a> His Instagram:<a href="https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle/?hl=en</a> I’m from Ottawa, CanadaBeen climbing for 22 years. Ex Canadian National Bouldering team member. 7-8 time???3 x arm lifting World Champion (APL federation)8C boulderMultiple World records and class world records order  in the sport of Armlifting.  Feats Highlight - lightest person the lift the Thomas inch dumbbell- 6mm one arm pull-up and deadhang- lattice test edge + 32kg- 105kg on the rolling thunder- 1-5-9 with construction gloves The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

A Legend of Finger Strength: Yves Gravelle on Training & Performance  

Tom Randall is back with another solo podcast session, following on from the recent "Common Mistake in Endurance Training" that was very popular. Like the previous format, he explores the big issues that climbers will typically have when training or preparing their power endurance.In part 1, he breaks down the critical factor of 'specificity' and why you need to address it on the three fronts of technical, psychological and physical preparation. Ignoring, or wrongly addressing almost any of these elements will significantly impact both the effect of your training and the performance outcomes. Get them right though, as you're talking about huge steps towards success! Technical:1. Rock types and associated movement patterns.2. Specific move types and efficiency within them.3. Learning how to climb fast AND slow at your project/goal gradePsychological:1. Accessing your 'try hard' zone with correct focus and frequency2. Learning to relax to the demands of the goal and not 'wasting' energy. 3. Training to rest appropriate for your project. 4. Chalking up ratios5. Terrain recognition and environmental stress/familiarity6. Fears of heights, exposure and fallingPhysical:1. Pacing for contraction and relaxation ratios.2. Hold size and types relative to muscle activation and soft tissue demands.3. Specificity of project demands on ancillary muscle groups such as core, back and legs.4. Skin and pain conditioning5. Respecting the specificity of volume, intensity and 'section' interval frequency when trainingThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall is back with another solo podcast session, following on from the recent "Common Mistake in Endurance Training" that was very popular. Like the previous format, he explores the big issues that climbers will typically have when training or preparing their power endurance. In part 1, he breaks down the critical factor of 'specificity' and why you need to address it on the three fronts of technical, psychological and physical preparation. Ignoring, or wrongly addressing almost any of these elements will significantly impact both the effect of your training and the performance outcomes. Get them right though, as you're talking about huge steps towards success! Technical: 1. Rock types and associated movement patterns. 2. Specific move types and efficiency within them. 3. Learning how to climb fast AND slow at your project/goal grade Psychological: 1. Accessing your 'try hard' zone with correct focus and frequency 2. Learning to relax to the demands of the goal and not 'wasting' energy. 3. Training to rest appropriate for your project. 4. Chalking up ratios 5. Terrain recognition and environmental stress/familiarity 6. Fears of heights, exposure and falling Physical: 1. Pacing for contraction and relaxation ratios. 2. Hold size and types relative to muscle activation and soft tissue demands. 3. Specificity of project demands on ancillary muscle groups such as core, back and legs. 4. Skin and pain conditioning 5. Respecting the specificity of volume, intensity and 'section' interval frequency when training The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Improve Your Power Endurance: Part 1

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