Derek Dunfee's guest appearances

Derek Dunfee

Surf Splendor

SurflineTV (720p HD)

Swell Season

Late Drop: The Big Wave Podcast

Nathan Fletcher

Gary Linden

Shaun Tomson

Tom Curren

David Scales

Peter Mel

William Finnegan

Charles Mencel

Justin Jay

Thad Ziolkowski

Richard Phillips

Matt Warshaw

Mark Healey

Jamie Brisick

Chas Smith

OwlTail

In December of 2012 Derek Dunfee was found floating unconscious 100 miles to sea, nearly 20 minutes after suffering a horrendous wipeout at Cortes Bank. For the first time, Derek surveys the experience and how it has altered his perspective and shaped his future. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In December of 2012 Derek Dunfee was found floating unconscious 100 miles to sea, nearly 20 minutes after suffering a horrendous wipeout at Cortes Bank. For the first time, Derek surveys the experience and how it has altered his perspective and shaped his future. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit <a href="https://megaphone.fm/adchoices" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">megaphone.fm/adchoices</a>

386 - Derek Dunfee: Waking Up In The Sea

The San Diego big-wave icon and author articulating the realities of head trauma Welcome to Episode Six of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — Stay tuned here for more Late Drop episodes. In big-wave surfing — much like normal-wave surfing — the audience usually sees two things: the makes and wipeouts. Both, very entertaining; both, which earn guys and girls awards each year. What we don’t see, however, is what those wipeouts can do to a person, over and over, over time. What a concussion — let alone, multiple concussions — can do to someone. Perhaps, this is the big-wave world’s taboo topic, but San Diego charger and big-wave awards winner, Derek Dunfee, has done a whole lot to articulate (and write a book about) the effects big-wave surfing can have on your brain, specifically, one that is concussed. In this very special episode of The Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell and Derek Dunfee get real about the “network of issues,” one might see from multiple head traumas in the sport they love. 0:00: Growing up in San Diego, Surfing La Jolla, Windansea, Surfing every single day, History of the Windansea surf club and hut, Learning to surf from Dad, Doing NSSA events, Surfing different types of boards/guns/fishes 9:52: Becoming a Tavarua boatman, Getting sponsored by Volcom, Getting into big waves, Being used to respecting the locals and etiquette (from La Jolla), Not getting waves at spots at first 21:12: Derek’s path to Maverick’s, Friendship with Zach Wormhoudt, Going to Todos Santos, Being selfless and watching people/doing safety from the Ski 33:20: Fostering the new, younger generation, Being patient, Getting his first concussion at Cloudbreak, The Turkey Day swell and his XXL award winning wave 42:45: Derek’s beginning of his “end” of surfing big waves, Symptoms Derek would feel from his concussions, The series of hitting his head on reef at spots, Nearly drowning at Cortez Bank, Encountering anxiety with big waves, Not being able to focus his right eye, Network of issues 52:32: The dark period while writing his book, Finding a specialist to work with about concussions, The incredible responses on social media, Getting his lived saved by Shawn Dollar 1:02:43: Being there to listen about concussions, Helmets, Derek’s day to day routine, Hyperbaric chamber 1:14:51: How does someone know when they’ve had a concussion, Researching CTE, Derek’s book: “Waking Up in the Sea”

The San Diego big-wave icon and author articulating the realities of head trauma Welcome to Episode Six of Season Three of Late Drop – The Big Wave podcast. The series was created to showcase conversations with some of the best big-wave surfers in the world — hosted by one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. New episodes will drop on Surfline every other week — Stay tuned here for more Late Drop episodes. In big-wave surfing — much like normal-wave surfing — the audience usually sees two things: the makes and wipeouts. Both, very entertaining; both, which earn guys and girls awards each year. What we don’t see, however, is what those wipeouts can do to a person, over and over, over time. What a concussion — let alone, multiple concussions — can do to someone. Perhaps, this is the big-wave world’s taboo topic, but San Diego charger and big-wave awards winner, Derek Dunfee, has done a whole lot to articulate (and write a book about) the effects big-wave surfing can have on your brain, specifically, one that is concussed. In this very special episode of The Late Drop, Jamie Mitchell and Derek Dunfee get real about the “network of issues,” one might see from multiple head traumas in the sport they love. 0:00: Growing up in San Diego, Surfing La Jolla, Windansea, Surfing every single day, History of the Windansea surf club and hut, Learning to surf from Dad, Doing NSSA events, Surfing different types of boards/guns/fishes 9:52: Becoming a Tavarua boatman, Getting sponsored by Volcom, Getting into big waves, Being used to respecting the locals and etiquette (from La Jolla), Not getting waves at spots at first 21:12: Derek’s path to Maverick’s, Friendship with Zach Wormhoudt, Going to Todos Santos, Being selfless and watching people/doing safety from the Ski 33:20: Fostering the new, younger generation, Being patient, Getting his first concussion at Cloudbreak, The Turkey Day swell and his XXL award winning wave 42:45: Derek’s beginning of his “end” of surfing big waves, Symptoms Derek would feel from his concussions, The series of hitting his head on reef at spots, Nearly drowning at Cortez Bank, Encountering anxiety with big waves, Not being able to focus his right eye, Network of issues 52:32: The dark period while writing his book, Finding a specialist to work with about concussions, The incredible responses on social media, Getting his lived saved by Shawn Dollar 1:02:43: Being there to listen about concussions, Helmets, Derek’s day to day routine, Hyperbaric chamber 1:14:51: How does someone know when they’ve had a concussion, Researching CTE, Derek’s book: “Waking Up in the Sea”

Our guest was the 2009  XXL Big Wave  Paddle In Award winner, a former big wave charger and now turned photographer, Derek Dunfee.  Derek is a lifelong surfer raised on the reefs of La Jolla, California, who went on to travel the world and chase swells, becoming one of the most respected big wave surfers on the planet. At present day he's reached a comfort level in heavy conditions that allows him to take his camera into scenarios most could never imagine. Dunfee's images take you right into the heart of some of the ocean's most powerful moments. It's this Unique perspective that makes his imagery so remarkable, and ultimately timeless. He has recently launched his second book, Waking up in the Sea, where he goes into detail about surfing and chasing big waves. But also opens up about how the concussions and trauma he suffered from big wave surfing impacts him in his everyday life.  Swell Season Surf Radio is recorded by The NewsStand Studio at Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan and is distributed by WAX.Radio

Our guest was the 2009 XXL Big Wave Paddle In Award winner, a former big wave charger and now turned photographer, Derek Dunfee. Derek is a lifelong surfer raised on the reefs of La Jolla, California, who went on to travel the world and chase swells, becoming one of the most respected big wave surfers on the planet. At present day he's reached a comfort level in heavy conditions that allows him to take his camera into scenarios most could never imagine. Dunfee's images take you right into the heart of some of the ocean's most powerful moments. It's this Unique perspective that makes his imagery so remarkable, and ultimately timeless. He has recently launched his second book, Waking up in the Sea, where he goes into detail about surfing and chasing big waves. But also opens up about how the concussions and trauma he suffered from big wave surfing impacts him in his everyday life. Swell Season Surf Radio is recorded by The NewsStand Studio at Rockefeller Center in the heart of Manhattan and is distributed by WAX.Radio

Derek Dunfee: Waking Up In the Sea