Alli Rainey's guest appearances

Alli Rainey

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

The Power Company Podcast

Power-Quest.cc: Der Kraftsport-Podcast

Ben Moon

Bill Ramsey

Angie Payne

Kyra Condie

Beth Rodden

Neely Quinn

Heather Weidner

Mathilde Becerra

Steve Bechtel

Charlie Manganiello

Jon Cardwell

Jonathan Siegrist

Dru Mack

Natasha Barnes

Dan Mirsky

OwlTail

In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, a Tensleep, Wyoming based climbing coach and trainer, writer, and yoga instructor.  Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature, vertical, technical style, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gymnastic routes... and had to change her entire approach to training and climbing, not to mention her body type, to do so.  You can find Alli at www.allirainey.com.She works constantly in the Tensleep Wyoming area, developing and advocating for climbing.  You can find out how to help at www.bighornclimbers.org.

In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, a Tensleep, Wyoming based climbing coach and trainer, writer, and yoga instructor.  Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature, vertical, technical style, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gymnastic routes... and had to change her entire approach to training and climbing, not to mention her body type, to do so.   You can find Alli at <a href="http://allirainey.com/home/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.allirainey.com</a>. She works constantly in the Tensleep Wyoming area, developing and advocating for climbing.  You can find out how to help at <a href="http://bighornclimbers.org/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.bighornclimbers.org</a>.

Episode 5: Overhauling Your Style with Alli Rainey

(Aktualisierte Aufnahme!) Trotz ihrer, von den "federleichten Weltcupkletterdamen" geprägten Kletteranfangsjahren in den frühen 1990ern, entschied sich Alli Rainey bereits vor Jahren für den "Power-way-of-climbing". Der Erfolg gibt ihr recht: Mit Begehungen bis in den oberen 10ten UIAA-Grad dürfte sie, sogar im internationalen Vergleich, bei den über 40-jährigen unter den Top 10 der stärksten "Rotpunkt-Felsdamen" zu finden sein. Doch wie wichtig ist Krafttraining beim Klettern? Wie können Hanteln weit mehr als nur "Muskeln aufbauen" und was differenziert Bodybuilding- von sportspezifischem Athletiktraining? Inwiefern gezieltes Fingerkrafttraining auch am Eisen möglich bzw. auch sinnvoll ist? Was ist der Unterschied zwischen Klettern und "Training fürs Klettern"? Wie funktioniert ihre "sanfte Nichtperiodisierung" und warum "lebt" jeder Trainingsplan von der Adaptation an den jeweiligen Athleten? Welche Ernährungstipps hat die durchtrainierte Powerfrau (56 bis 58 kg bei 1,68 m Körpergröße) auf Lager? Alle Antworten im Exklusivinterview mit Jürgen Reis inkl. faktengeladenem Vor- und Abspann mit Profikletterer Sven Albinus und ... Spendenaktion!

543a: Klettercoach und "Power-Kletter-Lady" Alli Rainey (USA)

About Alli RaineyAlli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve. Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for climbing (rather than climbing to train for climbing) for herself and her clients, and she's successfully expanded her climbing horizons to steeper stuff. I know - I've seen her at the Motherlode in the Red ;) What We Talked About The most important things for climbers to do to get stronger How everyone's needs are different, and how to train your personal weaknesses Diet and body weight's role in sending hard What to do on your off season, and how she's successfully sent hard routes after only climbing on her home wall A lot moreRelated Links Alli's site at www.allirainey.com Alli on Facebook: www.facebook.com/alliraineyclimbing Alli working the 14a at Ten Sleep, Galactic Emperor (VIDEO)Support The Podcast This podcast is made possible by the Training Programs on TrainingBeta. Check 'em out if you need some help sending! If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.Listen and Review on iTunes Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)MusicIntro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings   Thanks for listening!

About Alli Rainey Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve. Since then, she's studied the art and science of training for climbing (rather than climbing to train for climbing) for herself and her clients, and she's successfully expanded her climbing horizons to steeper stuff. I know - I've seen her at the Motherlode in the Red ;) What We Talked About <ul> <li>The most important things for climbers to do to get stronger</li> <li>How everyone's needs are different, and how to train your personal weaknesses</li> <li>Diet and body weight's role in sending hard</li> <li>What to do on your off season, and how she's successfully sent hard routes after only climbing on her home wall</li> <li>A lot more</li></ul>Related Links <ul> <li>Alli's site at <a href="www.allirainey.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.allirainey.com</a></li> <li>Alli on Facebook: <a href="www.facebook.com/alliraineyclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.facebook.com/alliraineyclimbing</a></li> <li>Alli working the 14a at Ten Sleep, Galactic Emperor (<a href="http://vimeo.com/6319749" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">VIDEO</a>)</li></ul>Support The Podcast <ul> <li>This podcast is made possible by the <a href="http://trainingbeta.com/climbing-training-programs/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Training Programs</a> on TrainingBeta. <a href="http://trainingbeta.com/climbing-training-programs/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Check 'em out</a> if you need some help sending!</li> <li>If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.</li></ul>Listen and Review on iTunes <ul> <li>Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-trainingbeta-podcast/id827233918?mt=2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</li> <li>Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes <a href="https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-trainingbeta-podcast/id827233918?mt=2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a> to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)</li></ul>Music Intro and outro song: <a href="http://buildbuildings.tumblr.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Yesterday by Build Buildings </a>  Thanks for listening!

TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight