Tonde Katiyo's guest appearances

Tonde Katiyo

The Power Company Podcast

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Kyra Condie

Jason Kehl

Heather Weidner

John Sherman

Jonathan Siegrist

Brittany Goris

Tyler Algeo

Bill Ramsey

Favia Dubyk

Devin Dabney

Jared Vagy

Craig DeMartino

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk

Dru Mack

Natasha Barnes

OwlTail

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types of bouldering challenges, about the value and importance of route setting in a growing industry, about The Lab, and keeping training in perspective.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-2  Nuggets:  2:18 – RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, and athletic empathy  10:39 – More about RIC and the appropriate response/attitude for each  20:22 – “We need to do better for setters”  29:26 – Drawing comparisons between setting and the restaurant industry, and indoor climbing as a soon-to-be billion-dollar industry  37:56 – The Lab  48:40 – Gratitude for the partners who support us  51:07 – Excited about climbing  54:31 – Recent favorite music  57:44 – Climbing projects  1:04:43 – Tonde’s request, and keeping training in perspective  

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types of bouldering challenges, about the value and importance of route setting in a growing industry, about The Lab, and keeping training in perspective.  Support on Patreon:  <a href="http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  </a>Show Notes:  <a href="http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-2  </a>Nuggets:  2:18 – RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, and athletic empathy  10:39 – More about RIC and the appropriate response/attitude for each  20:22 – “We need to do better for setters”  29:26 – Drawing comparisons between setting and the restaurant industry, and indoor climbing as a soon-to-be billion-dollar industry  37:56 – The Lab  48:40 – Gratitude for the partners who support us  51:07 – Excited about climbing  54:31 – Recent favorite music  57:44 – Climbing projects  1:04:43 – Tonde’s request, and keeping training in perspective

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-1  Nuggets: 3:10 – The joys of parenting  4:34 – Tonde’s shitty gym session, the ratio of “good” to “bad” sessions, and collecting bad sessions  7:01 – Getting back in shape, Tonde’s “Level 1” goals, and climbing with Nathan Hadley  8:50 – Tonde’s current role at the Bouldering Project  9:56 – Getting hired, Tonde’s dream world, and the happy accident of circuit setting  15:05 – The problem with treating climbing grades as a fixed measurement  17:50 – Being talked into coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes  22:16 – Tonde’s inside joke, emotion and intention, and speculation as to why those three athletes saught coughing from Tonde  24:42 – Learning to apply the appropriate amount of effort, the complexity of climbing, the mental and emotional boxes, and tweaking dials on the switchboard  29:34 – Learning who people are, and learning to say exactly the right thing at exactly the right time  32:13 – Tonde’s competition background, and how his experience competing and route setting has informed his coaching  36:39 – Asking competitors interesting questions through route setting, and the hand jam scandal  40:44 – Tonde’s training camps, the role of route setting in coaching, and helping athletes work through frustration and other emotions  48:03 – “How do you feel?”, and answering that question with honesty  51:34 – Working with Nathan on his footwork  56:14 – “Your climbing should resemble your personality”  58:44 – When our personalities work against us, winning competitions on your weaknesses rather than strengths, and the inconveniences of competitions vs. those of outdoor climbing  1:03:16 – Tonde’s discrimination and privilege resumes (see show notes for links to his Instagram posts)  1:13:20 – Patron Question: With the BLM protests and social change going on right now, has Tonde seen climbers trying to be more inclusive? Could we get some examples of people employing some good tact and also some bad tact?  1:18:59 – Hoping for a more tolerant world for his kids, and “better climbing makes better people, and better people will make a better world.”  1:23:14 – Patron Question: I would love to hear Tonde talk about being a dad, and also someone that participates in a potentially high consequence past time. How does he manage progression and risk of injury? How does he look at risk for himself, and how does he prepare to take on more risk to move the bar up a notch? How does he manage risk for his kids, and how does he introduce them to it in a healthy way?  1:30:55 – How Tonde thinks about introducing his kids to climbing, and hoping they find passion (even if it’s crocheting)  

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world.  Support on Patreon:<a href="http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  </a>Show Notes:  <a href="http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-1  </a>Nuggets: 3:10 – The joys of parenting  4:34 – Tonde’s shitty gym session, the ratio of “good” to “bad” sessions, and collecting bad sessions  7:01 – Getting back in shape, Tonde’s “Level 1” goals, and climbing with Nathan Hadley  8:50 – Tonde’s current role at the Bouldering Project  9:56 – Getting hired, Tonde’s dream world, and the happy accident of circuit setting  15:05 – The problem with treating climbing grades as a fixed measurement  17:50 – Being talked into coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes  22:16 – Tonde’s inside joke, emotion and intention, and speculation as to why those three athletes saught coughing from Tonde  24:42 – Learning to apply the appropriate amount of effort, the complexity of climbing, the mental and emotional boxes, and tweaking dials on the switchboard  29:34 – Learning who people are, and learning to say exactly the right thing at exactly the right time  32:13 – Tonde’s competition background, and how his experience competing and route setting has informed his coaching  36:39 – Asking competitors interesting questions through route setting, and the hand jam scandal  40:44 – Tonde’s training camps, the role of route setting in coaching, and helping athletes work through frustration and other emotions  48:03 – “How do you feel?”, and answering that question with honesty  51:34 – Working with Nathan on his footwork  56:14 – “Your climbing should resemble your personality”  58:44 – When our personalities work against us, winning competitions on your weaknesses rather than strengths, and the inconveniences of competitions vs. those of outdoor climbing  1:03:16 – Tonde’s discrimination and privilege resumes (see show notes for links to his Instagram posts)  1:13:20 – Patron Question: With the BLM protests and social change going on right now, has Tonde seen climbers trying to be more inclusive? Could we get some examples of people employing some good tact and also some bad tact?  1:18:59 – Hoping for a more tolerant world for his kids, and “better climbing makes better people, and better people will make a better world.”  1:23:14 – Patron Question: I would love to hear Tonde talk about being a dad, and also someone that participates in a potentially high consequence past time. How does he manage progression and risk of injury? How does he look at risk for himself, and how does he prepare to take on more risk to move the bar up a notch? How does he manage risk for his kids, and how does he introduce them to it in a healthy way?  1:30:55 – How Tonde thinks about introducing his kids to climbing, and hoping they find passion (even if it’s crocheting)

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

I've heard Tonde Katiyo described as a ninja, a samurai, Buddha and Yoda, among other ethereal, higher level beings. Though Tonde is definitely a human, those descriptions aren't necessarily wrong.  In conversation it's quickly evident that Tonde has put quite a bit of thought and care into his craft. He approaches it with both a pragmatism and creativity that often don't exist together. Partly because of this juxtaposition, many in the routesetting industry seem to look to Tonde for their cues, and he doesn't give answers lightly. Instead, he asks questions.  Tonde and I sat down at the Climbing Wall Association Summit to discuss his vision for setting... both present and future. We dig into his ideas concerning circuits, the RIC (risk, intensity, complexity) Scale, the silent partnership between climber and setter, and art versus design.  If you came here looking for answers, you may not find them. What you will likely find are more questions. According to Tonde Katiyo, those may be the best answers of all.  For the photo of Tonde with Yoda ears and holding planets in his hands, as well as links to his instagram and videos, visit us at The Episode Page You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

I've heard Tonde Katiyo described as a ninja, a samurai, Buddha and Yoda, among other ethereal, higher level beings. Though Tonde is definitely a human, those descriptions aren't necessarily wrong.  In conversation it's quickly evident that Tonde has put quite a bit of thought and care into his craft. He approaches it with both a pragmatism and creativity that often don't exist together. Partly because of this juxtaposition, many in the routesetting industry seem to look to Tonde for their cues, and he doesn't give answers lightly. Instead, he asks questions.  Tonde and I sat down at the <a href="https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Climbing Wall Association Summit</a> to discuss his vision for setting... both present and future. We dig into his ideas concerning circuits, the RIC (risk, intensity, complexity) Scale, the silent partnership between climber and setter, and art versus design.  If you came here looking for answers, you may not find them. What you will likely find are more questions. According to Tonde Katiyo, those may be the best answers of all.  For the photo of Tonde with Yoda ears and holding planets in his hands, as well as links to his instagram and videos, visit us at <a href="http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/7/28/episode-99-setting-for-the-future-with-tonde-katiyo" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Episode Page</a> You can support the podcast at <a href="http://www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast</a> We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.