Ned Feehally's guest appearances

Ned Feehally

Jam Crack - The Niall Grimes Climbing Podcast

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

John Long

Hazel Findlay

Zofia Reych

Jerry Moffatt

Steve McClure

Nick Bullock

Tommy Caldwell

John Allen

Dave Birkett

Matt Segal

Bob Smith

Michael Duffy

Jim Herrington

Bill Ramsey

Glenn Robbins

OwlTail

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingNed’s Original Episode:EP 113: Ned Feehally

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! I sat down with Ned Feehally to cover questions I wish I had asked him in our first episode. We talked about Ned’s three different protocols for Max Hangs, why he thinks 20-seconds hangs are best for long-term strength gains, when to use each of his different protocols, how I have incorporated his advice into my own finger training, and much more! Join us for more finger training geekery!<a href="https://www.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Become a Patron</a> to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:03:39.<a href="http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing</a>Ned’s Original Episode:<a href="https://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehally" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">EP 113: Ned Feehally</a>

Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)

Ned Feehally is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)climbwell.co/retreat-rifleUse discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10%  off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehallyNuggets:0:07:43 – Staying in a gite in Fontainbleau0:09:45 – Shauna Coxsey’s husband0:11:07 – A background on Ned’s climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield0:16:51 – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s0:21:01 – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve0:22:57 – Ned’s philosophy for improving at climbing, being well rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly0:28:20 – Ned’s dimensions, “If that’s how you’re built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber0:32:08 – The leap in Ned’s climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)0:35:29 – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?0:39:40 – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing0:45:25 – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions0:47:35 – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training0:52:05 – An annual overview of Ned’s finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals0:56:11 – How much variety should you have in your finger training?0:59:24 – Training one grip type per session1:02:12 – The genetic component of finger strength1:05:54 – How Ned structures a week of finger training1:10:19 – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions1:14:25 – Ned’s thoughts on only training half crimp1:16:33 – The balance of Ned’s finger training and outdoor climbing1:20:19 – Ned’s home wall, and making his own wooden holds1:22:19 – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?1:24:21 – Ned’s thinking about using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders1:26:11 – Structuring a board session (bouldering)1:28:28 – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character1:32:09 – Targeting move types in a sessions1:32:55 – Bouldering with ankle weights1:39:42 – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process1:42:38 – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries1:48:26 – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?1:54:01 – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard1:55:55 – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?1:57:09 – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?2:00:19 – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?2:02:29 – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation2:03:59 – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?2:05:13 – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?2:06:12 – Ned’s stretching routine2:10:14 – Science podcasts2:11:19 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?2:12:29 – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade2:17:12 – Flashing ‘Trust Issues’ V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset2:20:40 – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!2:23:58 – What's next for Beastmaker2:25:19 – Where to buy the book (links in show notes)

<a href="https://www.instagram.com/nedfee/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Ned Feehally</a> is Shauna Coxsey’s husband. (Just teasing Ned!) Ned is a top-level boulderer from the UK, the cofounder of Beastmaker, and the author of Beastmaking. We talked about his background in climbing, how Beastmaker got started, Ned’s approach to finger training, the benefits of board climbing, using ankle weights for body tension, and much more.Check out Athletic Greens!<a href="http://athleticgreens.com/NUGGET" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">athleticgreens.com/NUGGET</a>Use the link above to get a free year supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!<a href="https://grasshopperclimbing.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">grasshopperclimbing.com</a><a href="https://www.instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing</a>Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Upcoming ClimbWell Retreat! (June 9-12)<a href="https://www.climbwell.co/retreat-rifle" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">climbwell.co/retreat-rifle</a>Use discount code “NUGGET10” at checkout to save 10%  off your ticket!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:<ul><li>Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee</li></ul> Become a Patron:<a href="http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing</a>Show Notes:  <a href="http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehally" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ned-feehally</a>Nuggets:0:07:43 – Staying in a gite in Fontainbleau0:09:45 – Shauna Coxsey’s husband0:11:07 – A background on Ned’s climbing, some of his accomplishments, and going to college in Sheffield0:16:51 – Starting Beastmaker with Dan Varian, and the training paradigm in the early 2000s0:21:01 – Looking up to Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, and Malcolm Smith, and looking for ways to improve0:22:57 – Ned’s philosophy for improving at climbing, being well rounded, and enjoying doing lots of climbs quickly0:28:20 – Ned’s dimensions, “If that’s how you’re built then so be it”, and the advantages of carrying more muscle as a climber0:32:08 – The leap in Ned’s climbing from hangboarding for three years (V11 to V13, or 8A to 8B), and getting a second jump from training on his cellar board (home woody)0:35:29 – What do people miss most frequently in their finger training?0:39:40 – How to combine long-term finger training with outdoor or indoor climbing0:45:25 – Warming up on the fingerboard for climbing sessions0:47:35 – Active vs. passive finger strength, and which grips Ned focuses on in his finger training0:52:05 – An annual overview of Ned’s finger training, and how he prepares for specific goals0:56:11 – How much variety should you have in your finger training?0:59:24 – Training one grip type per session1:02:12 – The genetic component of finger strength1:05:54 – How Ned structures a week of finger training1:10:19 – Mixing max hangs and repeaters, and sticking with protocols for 10 sessions1:14:25 – Ned’s thoughts on only training half crimp1:16:33 – The balance of Ned’s finger training and outdoor climbing1:20:19 – Ned’s home wall, and making his own wooden holds1:22:19 – Patron question from Finn: Three best tools for making wooden holds?1:24:21 – Ned’s thinking about using the commercial gym and climbing on “normal” gym boulders1:26:11 – Structuring a board session (bouldering)1:28:28 – The board culture in the UK, and how every board has its own character1:32:09 – Targeting move types in a sessions1:32:55 – Bouldering with ankle weights1:39:42 – Expectations when it comes to finger training, and trusting the process1:42:38 – Taking time completely off from climbing, and the perspective you get when you get your hand forced by injuries1:48:26 – Patron question from Gunter: How long has Ned been hangboarding? How much has his finger strength increased during that time? How well have those gains translated to climbing performance?1:54:01 – Using training as a chance to learn how hard you can pull if you try really hard1:55:55 – Patron question from Mihail: How do your training approaches change depending on if you need to work on active vs. passive gripping?1:57:09 – Patron question from Moritz: Where does Ned put his thumb when crimping on the fingerboard?2:00:19 – Patron question from Simon: Can Ned attribute any breakthroughs in his climbing to changes in his mindset or other lifestyle factors?2:02:29 – What it was like supporting Shauna through her Olympic preparation2:03:59 – Patron question from Alistair: Does Ned train contact strength?2:05:13 – Patron question from Andrew: How important is flexibility for tall climbers? And what does his bare minimum stretching session look like?2:06:12 – Ned’s stretching routine2:10:14 – Science podcasts2:11:19 – Patron question from fdclimbs: Favorite bouldering area in the Lakes District?2:12:29 – Whether V16 is a goal for Ned, how surprised he is to be climbing at his current level, and finding hard challenges regardless of the grade2:17:12 – Flashing ‘Trust Issues’ V14 in Rocklands, and the flashing mindset2:20:40 – Adding to the community through Beastmaker and writing the book Beastmaking, and a kid on the way!2:23:58 – What's next for Beastmaker2:25:19 – Where to buy the book (links in show notes)

EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights

He’s one half of the Beastmaker team, and one of the strongest climbers in the UK. Ned Feehally has added some of the country’s hardest problems, bouldered up to Font 8C, done well in comps and pushed the art of highball bouldering as far as it’s been pushed. Yet he remains backstage and keeps his climbing to himself. Let’s hear what this dark horse has to say.

He’s one half of the Beastmaker team, and one of the strongest climbers in the UK. Ned Feehally has added some of the country’s hardest problems, bouldered up to Font 8C, done well in comps and pushed the art of highball bouldering as far as it’s been pushed. Yet he remains backstage and keeps his climbing to himself. Let’s hear what this dark horse has to say.